Recent Emory study says black children have a large vitamin D deficiancy

Low Vitamin D levels in adolescents diets have been linked to hypertension, hyperglycemia and metabolic syndrome that can lead to type 2 diabetes. Medicinenet writes about Emory University's assistant professor of pediatrics Dr. Conrad R. Cole's study stating that 26% of African American children have seriously low levels of vitamin D. This is because of the increased pigmentation in African Americans skin.

Well seeing that African Americans can't change their skin color this poses a unique challenge, because in the skin care arena, we are taught to strongly limit your sun exposure. Too much exposure to the sun can lead to skin cancers, complexion issues among other issues. Lets focus on our need for vitamin D for a bit . The sun is the major source of of vitamin D. According to the Vitamin D Council our bodies process UVB rays from the sun through a process called cholecalciferol. Cholecalciferol is produced in our skin when the sun hits our bare skin.

Vitamin D is turned into calcium which is used in our bodies for many important needs. Ok now lets focus on recommendation of use of sunscreens to prevent skin caners and other issues. The Canadian Center for Occupational Health & Safety states that The UVB rays from the sun that are mostly responsible for our bodies synthesis of vitamin D, causes skin cancer, aging of the skin and wrinkling.

Now the question is, Do I use sunscreen to fight off potential skin cancer, aging & wrinkling or Do I allow the sun's rays to penetrate into my skin, thereby producing much needed vitamin D. This is the constant struggle. I say be conscious of both. You only need 10 minutes of direct sun exposure to produce enough vitamin D. In the summer months you can take a short walk on your lunch break for approxiamly 10 to 15 mins. If your wearing sun screen on your face that's fine. You could make sure your arms are exposed to the sun for the 10 to 15 mins. It doesn't matter what part of your body is exposed to the sun.

It might matter if you show off too much skin on your walk... but that's a different topic for a different blog '-)

If you adapt this practice you can get your required daily dose of vitamin D while fighting off old age. If you have no time for walks then you can take vitamin D pills or drink milk or orange juice fortified with vitamin D. As a Jamaican American I use sunscreen to manage my skin complexion and health and I promote it's use to my clients. My opinion on African American adolescents low vitamin D levels is that it is probably due to their diet coupled with their natural sunscreen. I believe that too much sun exposure by any race can become problematic.

Until next time.. Love the skin you're in

Skin Chick '-)

Are topical creams and lotions polluting our environment???

The debate is on between Dermatologists& Scientists in our communities about topical cream residues getting into our environment and leaving a footprint. OMG!!! There is yet another footprint to look out for. Ok so listen I read an article from Dermatology times that says the following.

A study on pollution from active pharmaceutical ingredients (API's) has discovered that drug residues are released into the environment. It's been well known that (API's)are found in bodily waste and released into lakes, rivers and oceans trough the sewage systems and treatment plants, or when people flush unused drugs down the toilet.

This new study shows new ways (API's) enter the environment when users of topical medications like lotions, ointments, gels or skin patches-bathe, shower or wash their clothing. The co-author of this study is Dr. Ruhoy and her colleague. They identified the potential a new source of (API's)have by reviewing hundreds of studies on the metabolism and use of medications.

The researchers focused on (API's) in medications applied to the skin then washed off the body or clothes and down the drain OR are excreted through sweat glands onto clothes that are then washed. This means that steroids like cortisone and testosterone, acne medicines, antimicrobial, narcotics and other substances can enter the environment.

Dr. Ruhoy states that some active pharmaceutical ingredients (API's) in topical medications could have potentially a greater impact on the environment that API's released in bodily wastes, because topical API's released through bathing and showering are un-metabolized and at full strength. The API's released into the environment in feces and urine are at a lesser strength because they have been metabolized in the liver & kidney before being excreted.

The article in Dermatology times goes on to say lots more. I want to say that I am even more aware of how we impact our world with everything that we do. I want to be more conscious of all the decisions I make, I'm not really sure what we can do to control where the products go when we bathe or wash our clothes, however this is good food for thought.

As always, Love the skin you're in!

Skin Chick '-)

Accutane and it's side effects

Definition: Isotretinoin (Generic Name) is a powerful and effective medicine derived from vitamin A. Doctors prescribe it to treat severe acne only after other treatments have failed.

It was reported in the Seattle times that Roche officials (manufacturer) decision to withdraw Accutane reflected market pressures and the cost of lawsuits, not safety concerns?? Wow! Plaintiffs have won an estimated $33 million in judgments against Roche for bowel disorders, according to an industry publication, Dermatology Times.
Below is part of the article written in the Seattle Times.

Over it's 25 year history, Isotretinoin has been found to cause serious birth defects and possibly to increase the risk of depression and suicidal behavior. Women who take isotretinoin have to register with the government, sign a consent form saying they understand the medical risks, use two forms of birth control and submit to monthly pregnancy tests.Isotretinoin is a form of vitamin A, it usually is taken daily for 3 to 6 months, accomplishing lasting improvements in 99% of patients and cure approximately 70%.

Occasionally isotretinoin is used for psoriasis, lupus and cancer. Accutane has been used by 13 million people worldwide and was one of Roche's best selling drugs with about $200 million a year in sales before it's patent expired in 2002. The drug also has been publicly and emotionally linked to an increased risk of depression, including suicides and some families of those who killed themselves have pressed the FDA for it's removal. U.S. Representative Bark Stupak, D-Michigan, whose teenage son committed suicide after taking accutane has been among them.

Below is a list of some serous side effects of Accutane aka Isotretinoin

1. Ulcerative Colitis
2. Crohn's Disease
3. Inflammatory Bowel Disease
4. Severe Depression
5. Suicidal thoughts
6. Birth Defects
7. Liver Damage
8. Allergic Reactions

If you want my two cents, I say find something else to manage your acne. Some people have mild enough acne that can be corrected with routine facial treatments with an Esthetician. If not ask your doctor for a different prescription. Now I have a question for you... What price are you willing to pay for beauty??

Until next time Love the skin you're in!

Skinchick '-)

Are basic facials the same as you washing your own face??

Most estheticians would describe a basic facial to include cleaning the face and neck with a cleanser twice, analyzing the skin under a magnifying lamp for any skin irregularities. Gently exfoilating the skin with a mild exfoilator. Massaging the face and neck while steaming the face. Extracting whiteheads, blackheads, sebaceous filaments and milia. Applying a mask ( I am going somewhere with this) Applying an eye cream, lip balm, moisturizer with sunscreen.

Now ask yourself this question, Do I clean my face like that everyday? No, right? Well when you go along for weeks with maybe cleansing and moisturizing your skin without any real exfoilating or extracting of things like sebaceous filaments (oil & dirt). The dead skin cells that our skin sheds daily piles up on the surface of our skin. This causes you to look dull and can lead to breakouts from clogged pores.

Now there are some sophisticated women out their that have stepped up their game to include exfoliating and using corrective serums, and this is a testament to the skin care professionals out their (estheticians included) that educated their clients about regular exfoliation. However if you are prone to breakouts, dry flaky skin, milia and hyperpigmentation you can get more bang for your buck by getting at least a basic facial. At a minimum you need to go once a month, consider it like getting your teeth cleaned. When the esthetician extracts your skin she is pushing out impurities that does not belong in your pores.

It's like the plaque that builds up on your teeth.You know how the dentist tells us to floss daily and get our teeth cleaned every few months. We tend to miss hidden areas in our mouth because we can't reach those tight areas in our mouth . The dentist does a thorough cleaning because when you are lying in the dental chair with your mouth open the dentist can reach in from an angle that we can not.

When getting a facial the esthetician has the same vantage point, especially when extracting the skin. The pores on our face sits at an approximately 35 degree angle and depending on where your whitehead or any other skin impurity lies on your face. You can not successfully extract without causing more harm than good. for example: If you don't get all of the whitehead out it can spread to neighboring pores spreading the bacteria. You could also cause major scaring of the face.

Well for those of us that either have very oily skin, dry flaky skin or combination skin with hyperpigmentation you need to create a routine of getting a facial at least once a month. For those with more chronic skin conditions you should go every two weeks until your condition becomes more manageable like acne.Over time and these are keywords, your skin will become more balanced and even toned. This does not mean that your natural skin type is cured. This means that you have conditioned your skin to behave in a more healthy manner for a period of time and your skin begins to conform to the new routine.

Healthy skin is normal skin. Normal skin balances the sebum (oil) and water on it's own. This means that the skins' acid mantle( this is a light layer of film on the top of our skin that protects it from bacteria,viruses and inappropriate chemicals) is healthy. I'll talk more about this in another blog. Normal skin has a Ph between 5 and 6.5. keeping the skin properly cleaned, hydrated, exfoliated and properly protected from the sun plays a role in how healthy it is.

Until next time, love the skin you're in!

How the Candela V Beam reduces keloids

The Candela V Beam was recently featured on the View earlier in April. The V-beam emits a wavelength of 595 nanometers(nm)that is attracted to blood and pigmentation.It is used for many vascular skin conditions like broken capillaries, haemangomas, rosacea,port wine stains and leg veins.It's also used to treat superficial skin pigmentation issues like sunspots, freckles and cafe-au-lait macules.What I want to focus on here is what the V beam does for keloid scars.

First lets start with the definition of a keloid scar. Wikipedia's definition of a keloid is: A keloid (also known as a "keloidal scar"[1]:1499) is a type of scar, which depending on its maturity, is composed of mainly either type III (early) or type I (late) collagen. It is a result of an overgrowth of granulation tissue (collagen type 3) at the site of a healed skin injury which is then slowly replaced by collagen type 1. Keloids are firm, rubbery lesions or shiny, fibrous nodules, and can vary from pink to flesh-colored or red to dark brown in color. A keloid scar is benign, non-contagious, and sometimes accompanied by severe itchiness and pain[2], and changes in texture. In severe cases, it can affect movement of skin.

Keloids should not be confused with hypertrophic scars, which are raised scars that do not grow beyond the boundaries of the original wound.Experts are not exactly sure how the 595 wavelength of the V beam works to reduce redness or improve the pliability of hypertrophic scars and keloids,but it is believed that the wavelength of 595 nanometers affects the underlying micro vascular structure of the scar to cause a disruption of the collagen activity of the scar.People that fall in between a skin type 4 through 6 on the Fitzpatrick Scale.The Fitzpatrick Scale was developed in 1975 by Thomas Fitzpatrick MD, PhD of Harvard Medical School. The scale is used to classify skin types and is considered the standard in the skin care industry. See Example below:

TYPE 1: Always burns, never tans. Example: Red hair with freckles

TYPE 2: Burns easily, tans minimally. Example: Fair skinned, fair haired Caucasians

TYPE 3:Sometimes burns, slowly tans to light brown. Example: Darker Caucasians.

TYPE 4: Burns minimally, always tans to moderate brown. Example: Mediterranean type Caucasians.

TYPE 5: Rarely burns, tans well. Example: Some Hispanics, Some of African descent.

TYPE 6: Never burns, deeply pigmented. Example: Darker African descendants.

If you fall in between a Skin Type 4 and 6, have a family history of keloids,you may get keloids from an injury or trauma to the skin. This includes piercings,also check with a dermatologist if you are considering getting a tattoo. This could set things in motion towards you forming a keliod.If you have keloids I would have a consultation with a dermatologist or plastic surgeon that uses the V bean, all you got to lose is your keloid, right! Well I hope this has been informative and useful to you! Until next time love the skin you're in!

PS: I have a keloid on my shoulder and plan to look into the V bean for myself.. so, I will let you know what happens '-)


Skin Chick

Control your pigmentation issues

Hy -per-pig-men-ta-tion; Dark spots on the skin. (webster's medical dictionary) It can be a sign of a underlying medical problem. Your Esthetician will let you know if you need to consult with a Dermatologist.

There are many ways to treat this condition, from chemical peels, lightening creams, laser and microdermabrasion.One way that I help my clients is with a series of peels paired with microdermabrasion. Some of the things I tell my clients is, that they will have to allow some time for the pigmentation to be gone. The skin goes through a 6 week cycle where the new cells from stratum basale layer of the epidermis creates new skin cells that migrate up to the top layer of of epidermis.To remove the hyperpigmentated cells you have to spead up the migration process from the basale layer over several skin cycles. The first thing I do is to find out about my clients lifestyle and look into the cause of the hyperpigmentation.

Some of the causes can range from one or more of the following things:

Acne
Sun
Hormones
Skin Irritation
Medication
Allergies
Trauma
Skin Disorders

Most of the causes that I have worked with is Acne, Sun, Trauma,Skin Disorders and Hormonally causes of pigmentation. I will often layer some of the modalities(ie: peels with or without demaplaning serums and microdermabrasion) that I use to get the results my clients want.

Depending on the severity of the clients pigmentation issues I will prep their skin, over a few months for a more agressive chemical peel to include either a TCA or Jessner peel. I am also a fan of the Obaji Medical Skin Care line which does a very good job of suppressing the Melanocyte cells that causes hyperpigmentation. I also worked with Dermed skin cosmesutical skin care line. The Dermed Skin Care line has pharmacutical grade ingredients blended with botanicals. Their line has been proven to change our clients skin for the better.

To Sum up my thoughts the key to removing hyperpigmentated cells from the skin is to exfoliate (ie: Peels, Microderm, Laser or Lightening creams), Suppress Melanocyte cells (ie: Melanin suppressors like Hydraquinon) Protection of new skin with Moisturizers with a sunblock in it and finally be patient.

I am available at www.Sparadise.biz

Love the skin you're in!

Tracey "aka" Skin Chick